Energy Crisis Forces India’s Eateries to Adapt

Small and big eateries in India are feeling the pinch from the war in the Middle East. “Overnight you go from making a decent amount of money to being in huge losses.” Kitchens in India are powered by liquefied petroleum gas, or L.P.G. Roughly 60 per cent of India’s cooking gas comes mainly through the Strait of Hormuz. But the conflict in the Middle East has slowed imports and set off panic buying of gas cylinders in India. Sakshi Joshi opened a small food stall two years ago in Western India, selling momos, or steamed dumplings filled with meat and vegetables. Joshi said her family was against the idea, because they didn’t think it was a respectable job for a woman. “I loved Mexican food, I loved India.” Bert Mueller is from Maryland and grew fond of India during a study-abroad program. “I wanted to come back to India and spend time here, and this was the way to do it.” So in 2012, he opened California Burrito in Bangalore. Today, there are over 130 locations across India. “We have burritos, salads, rice bowls. I wouldn’t call it exactly fusion, but trying to adjust to the way that Indians cook their food and take inspiration from that.” But now, with little to no access to cooking gas, both businesses have pivoted to stay afloat. Joshi closed her food stall for more than a week to learn how to cook with firewood or coal. She also had to change her menu. Unlike Joshi, California Burrito had some gas reserves when the war started. But to keep the doors open, the company spent over $100,000 to buy electric induction stoves and fryers. “We were quick. So we placed the orders before other people did. We got the approvals to get electrified. Stores that needed capacity enhancements in terms of their electrical load, we got those done.” This allowed the company to keep the menu the same. “The products that are getting cooked now on the electric was, one is our fajita veggies, our paneer, and then on the electric grill top we have a grilled barbecue chicken. The big difference that has been part of this electrification is the batch size is much smaller. It means they have to cook it much more frequently.” California Burrito plans to integrate some gas again once it becomes more available. “Electricity is, frankly, not very stable. It’s not there all the time. So the L.P.G. was the most dependable way. I think the war has been a big wake-up call for Indians on the role that L.P.G. plays in our daily lives.” Joshi said she will ditch the firewood and go back to gas.